Mondo Bag: finish it February

Does this ever happen to you?

You declare a goal: "finish it February".  Well, declare might be a strong word, considering I never actually told anyone, or wrote it down.  Not exactly the best way to go about goal-setting, from what I hear.

But in my mind, February was my month to finish things.  So very many UFO's.  And I kept leaving my projects so close to being done.

Challenge fabric: what would you make?

Then there is new and shiny.  My arch nemesis.  Don't get me wrong, this was not quite an out-of-the-blue new project.  The fabric was purchased in November as a guild challenge.  And the challenge due date was in February.  But I did completely change my mind at January's retreat as to what exactly I was gonna make for the challenge (which would be due in February--did I mention that I am a bit of a procrastinator?)

Voila, February finish: the Mondo Bag

Completely ignoring the UFO's grumbling from their corners, I went for it with zeal and gusto on a new project.  But, to my credit, I did manage to finish said project.  Does this ever happen to you???


And now I'm sharing all the details with you. Pattern-review style, here is my take on making the Mondo Bag.

Name of pattern:  
Mondo Bag, by Quiltsmart

Other, similar patterns: 
Quiltsmart offers the Midi Bag and Bitty Bag, smaller versions of basically the same technique (8" square bottom, 12" tall sides; 5-1/2" square bottom, 9" tall sides, respectively)

Pattern description:
Mondo [mon'-doh], Adjective - large, big: "This bag is so mondo, I can pack for a whole weekend!"  Adverb - very, extremely: "This bag is mondo cool, and mondo easy to make!"  Mondo unique assembly!  Make yourself a Mondo travel bag, or a Mondo diaper bag!

Pattern sizing: 
finished bag measures about 10" square at the bottom, with 17" tall sides. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern when you were done?
Yep

Were the instructions easy to follow?
A bit tricky, I'd say.  You need both the printed pattern and the printed fusible interfacing to make the bag (subsequent bags will need more interfacing).  The instructions for using the fusible interfacing (that is the basis for many of Quiltsmart's products) worked fine for me.  Additionally, there are a couple YouTube videos available (Quiltsmart's official Mondo video and online instructor Karen Dennison's version) that can help take you through the process more smoothly than the written instructions.  I have a lot of bag sewing experience, so I was able to work thru basic bag construction techniques that were a little skimpy, even in the videos. I plan to write up a separate post with some construction hints.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  
I liked the fusible product for setting and stitching your squares together--worked like a charm.  I like the origami-like assembly technique that makes this bag--it is unique from any other bag I have made.  And this bag is darn roomy!  (I'm a little worried I might dislocate my shoulder if I load it up the way I do with my other bags.  My reminder: fluffy, bulky objects only; no armloads of books!)  I disliked the pocket option and I disliked the straps (so I changed them! see below)

Fabric used:
Quilting cottons and batiks.  The focus fabric was a Hoffman California screenprint (maybe a 2016 release?).  All other fabrics were from my stash, including the purple batik lining (yay, stashbusting!)  Interfacing was Pellon Fusible Fleece, my go-to for lightweight stability in many bag and kitchen sewing projects.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Ooh, many!  In fact, one reason I waited so long to write this blog post was because I envisioned throwing lots of pattern hack/tutorial type hints up at the same time as showing off my finish.  But... I'm planning on blogging about my alterations, just not here.

• Fabric placement (carefully considered design decisions here)
• Two internal pockets added
• Bag hardware for making the straps more attractive/stylish
• Stabilizing the bottom for a flatter appearance

Would you sew it again?  Would you recommend it to others?
Yes and yes.  I have already been asked to teach this bag--both at the shop, and by my guild.  I really want to make one with 5" squares, so individual fabrics are shown off better.  I also have the Midi Bag pattern + interfacing pack on deck for a spring tote: same technique, different size.

Conclusion
I love this bag so much that I started using it before the topstitching was even done.(!)  The size is wonderful for toting those bulky nearly-finished quilting projects.  Would also make an awesome beach tote, as it's definitely of a size to cart along allll the towels.
If you have not made a bag before, this might not be the one to start with, however.


I finished a thing!
Thanks for following along.

Tutorial: HST 101

HST: half-square triangle, the basis for many quilt blocks

I know about 8 methods for making HST's.  Some of them involve special rulers, specially marked papers, or other tools to simplify the process.  I have my two favorites (a tool and a paper product), but I can and do use others--they each have their pro's and con's.

This tutorial will show the most common method for making TWO HST units.

The math

finished size of HST unit + 7/8"

Cut two squares of fabric this size (coordinating fabrics, contrasting fabrics, or focus fabric + background fabric).  For example, a 2" finished block will use two squares that are 2 7/8" by 2 7/8".  This measurement allows for the diagonal seam allowance, and will result in TWO HST units that each measure 2 1/2" on a side (and will finish within a larger quilt block at the desired 2")

Steps

1.  Marking
On the wrong side of one of the fabric squares (choose the lightest fabric for easier drawing), draw a line along ONE diagonal.

You may use any straight edge/ruler for making this line.  Similarly, you may use any pen/pencil that will make a narrow line; the line will be within your seam allowance and will not be seen.

Alternatively, a tool called the Quilter's Rule Quick Quarter can be used for this marking step.  If you use this tool (very brief video here from Connecting Threads on YouTube), you will mark not only on the center of the diagonal, but along each of the edges of the tool.  This marking should be done in pencil.


2.  Stitching
Place your two fabric squares right sides together, pinning if you wish.  (I pin here because I am cautious when sewing along a bias, and don't want any chance of distortion.)
Stitch 1/4" away from each side of the line drawn along your diagonal.

If you used the Quick Quarter tool, these 1/4" stitching lines have been drawn by you already.  Simply stitch along the drawn outside lines.

3.  Cut and press
Cut apart your square along the center diagonal line.  Open the two HST units, pressing the seam allowance to one side (usually toward the darker fabric, unless your pattern advises otherwise).

Want more HST techniques?  I have written about a couple other techniques here and here (these were not meant to be tutorials, but do include some details)

Can you learn a technique from just pictures and text, or do you need a video tutorial? 

Stabilizing Satin Stitching

Block of the Month for February consisted of two interlocking circles of fused applique.  I was
determined to finish the edges of said applique with satin stitching.  I think in the past I have used mostly zigzag stitch for this; satin stitch is merely a more closely spaced version of zigzag.

But I had heard that satin stitching requires a stabilizer--you know, a backing to help all those closely placed stitches stay nice and neat.  A perfect opportunity to learn new things play!

What kind of stabilizer works the best?*

*For my machine; using my particular threads; your mileage may vary

The contenders

• Advertised stabilizers: Pellon E-Z Stitch, Sulky Totally Stable, Therm-o-Web Stitch n Sew
• Other "frugal" materials: freezer paper, paper towels, backing paper from Wonder Under

A note on threads & needles

I tried my six different stabilizer samples using three different threads.  Each thread was paired with a specific bobbin thread (following advice I read somewhere to use lighter weight thread in the bobbin when satin stitching). 

• My regular cotton piecing thread: Presencia 50 wt; bobbin: Presencia 60 wt (just slightly thinner).
• A hefty cotton topstitching thread: Sulky Blendables in 12 wt (this brand also comes in 30 wt); bobbin: Presencia 50 wt cotton
• Shiny, specialty thread: Sulky Rayon 40 wt; bobbin: Coats & Clark polyester

Needle:  Schmetz Topstitching machine needle, size 90/14 was used throughout.  That thing is a workhorse; color me impressed.

Hints

I read lots of advice on setting up for machine satin stitch before I tried my hand at it.  Recommendations that stood out to me:

• Use thicker thread; thinner thread as a bobbin
• Use the correct needle for your thread; a size 90/14 is often recommended even when using your usual piecing/sewing thread
• Loosen upper thread tension a bit
• Consider using an embroidery foot for your sewing machine, if one is available
• Release presser foot tension, if you have that option
• Go slowly, especially if you have tight curves or corners to navigate
• Pivot frequently along tight curves (not an issue for my samples)
• Try not to pull or tug on the fabric; let the feed dogs do the work

Practice, practice practice

For each combination of stabilizer and thread, I stitched a bit on an extra chunk of fabric that used the same fusible applique method as my BOM block.  I did this to check that the tension setting, stitch length and width appeared to still be working.

My machine recommended stitch length of 0.3-0.5 mm; I found that 0.4 mm worked best for all my samples.

Recommended stitch width was 2-5 mm; I used widths of 3.4-3.8.  If I were outlining a complicated design, I might choose narrower width for lesser details or super-curvy edges.

After each test, I checked for puckering, fabric distortion, and ease of removal of the stabilizer product.  When I had a combination I liked, I went ahead and stitched on the actual blocks for my project.  I knew I wanted to use at least two different threads in the finished block.

Results

I have to keep in mind that I was only outlining gentle curves, so I didn't put each product to a rigorous stress test.  Even so, I noticed some differences in how well the feed dogs reacted, how well the fabric remained un-distorted, and how "stabilized" I felt the block to be during the stitching process.

Fewer differences were evident in the ability to cleanly tear away each product.  (Again, not a lot of details, curves and tiny points/valleys to really test this feature.)

And, most surprisingly, not a lot of difference in the appearance of the actual stitching.  Every product gave me a lovely satin stitch.

Pellon E-Z Stitch:  my feed dogs didn't love it, and it was one of the two products that would worry me most for tearing away from intricate designs.  On the positive side, no real distortion of my curve, as it felt like the product "gripped" my fabric the best of those needing to be pinned in place.

Sulky Totally Stable:  my favorite!  Maybe this was an unfair grouping of products--Totally Stable actually adheres to the fabric (via a quick touch of the iron); most of the others rely on pins.  Regardless, this product performed well; thumbs up from my feed dogs, from keeping the block distortion-free, easy release of the fusing from the fabric and easy tear away from the stitching.  It also appears to be re-usable (except where the stitching was), making it somewhat economical.  But I don't consider it to be too expensive of a product anyway.

Therm-o-Web Stitch n Sew:  my second favorite!  Although it has to be pinned into place, Stitch n Sew adheres well to the fabric, flows nicely under the feed dogs, keeps the distortion at bay, and also tears away nicely.

Trying out the "frugal" options

Freezer paper:  although it adheres to fabric, I have always found the stiffness of Freezer Paper to be a problem when I need to maneuver my work.  For use as a stabilizer, I wouldn't choose it.

Paper towels:  this product actually gave me the most problem with distortion.  And I doubt its ability to tear away from the stitching easily--which threatens further distortion.  Thumbs down.

Backing paper from Wonder Under:  why not?  Re-use of a product that would otherwise go straight into the trash?  Not too bad, as long as your pinning is thorough.  Was a tiny bit slippery under my feed dogs, but otherwise acceptable.  And the price was right.



Thanks for playing along!  I have some new knowledge under my belt, and I will feel confident if when I next try some satin stitching.  Really digging this year's Block of the Month at my shop.

Close-up: flashy Sulky Rayon (in turquoise) and modest Presencia cotton

Cutest Baby Book *Ever*

I am, of course, biased.  But when I saw this baby book pattern over on Spoonflower, I was just waiting for the proper baby to come along to be the recipient.

No grandchildren (yet).  Where to find the proper baby?  Enter Monkey (her nickname, not her actual name).  The family logo on their minivan features Star Trek characters.  I think the family pet is on there as a Tribble...

Monkey's bedroom is decorated in Star-Wars-and-Winnie-the-Pooh.  (Featuring artwork by James Hance.)

Yay!  Perfect combo of nerdy-geek-baby to bestow this present upon.

 

Product Review: sew-it-yourself baby book from Spoonflower

What you receive: fat quarter of basic combed cotton (or optional Kona cotton)

Extra items needed to complete the book: basic sewing supplies; optional closure notions (hook-and-loop, button, or snap)

Ease of assembly: all the directions are printed on the fabric, seam allowances are marked, and diagrams are easy enough for someone with basic sewing experience to follow.

Finished product: I was most interested in this book both because of its nerdy theme, but also because of the flaps, as I am a big fan of interactive elements in children's books.  I did not particularly like the way the flaps were meant to attach to the book (but hey, it's a book for a child, not for a perfectionista like me).  I ended up improvising embroidery to attach some of them.  Everyone who has seen it has given the sewn-together book a big thumbs up.

Improvements?  If I were making this again, I would perhaps choose the Kona cotton as the base fabric.  (I have been spoiled by quilt shop fabrics, so the quality of the basic combed cotton was an affront to my sewing machine.)  Also, I would use interfacing, and maybe even some quilt batting.  I might try and make the flaps with topstitched zigzag stitching, so those tiny bits didn't need seam allowances tucked inside.

Mostly, I just wish there were more pages, so the cuteness could go on a little longer...

I think Monkey will like her present.  I think Monkey's parents will love her present more!

Buck-a-block: Feb and Mar

I didn't finish my February buck-a-block BOTM in time for March's meeting date, but I made some time this weekend to complete blocks for both months.  So I am ahead of the game for the April meeting (Yay, go me!)

New Waterwheel - shop sample

 This is the shop sample of the March block.  The pattern is "New Waterwheel Variation" from Judy Hopkins' 501 Rotary Cut Quilt Blocks (That Patchwork Place).  This month, even more than previous blocks, looks like it needs the border to complete it.

 See?  The versions shown in our pattern/cutting sheet even show the center 9" portion of the block with alternate colors in the corner half-square triangles.

Speaking of half-square triangles--I took the opportunity, since I was making two blocks at once, which had several HSTs between them, to try out a new tool: the Gizmo.

The Gizmo, by Sally Schneider Quilts, is a small diagonal ruler that helps you make HSTs from rectangles of fabric.  The idea is to be able to use the same size strip sets as other squares you are using in a block.  I chose to just use the tool before cutting the strips to size.

You place the tool along the diagonal of your rectangle, and mark a line on either side of it.  These are your stitching lines.

Stitch, then slash the two pieces apart.

Press seam toward the darker fabric.  Since I didn't trim my strip fabric before sewing, I trimmed my HSTs to the correct size at this point.  (I must say, these are the most accurate HST blocks I have ever made!)

My opinion: I like the Gizmo.  I'll probably still use Triangle Paper for making either smaller HSTs or large quantities of HSTs.  But this is definitely a tool to use if you have precut strips of fabric.

After my HST adventures, the blocks went together in short order.  Cute.

March: New Waterwheel & February: Whirling Square

I still don't know what I'll end up making with all these blocks, but I'm back on track with completing a block each month.

Topstitch/Edgestitch Revisited

cute embroidery scissors!

As promised, I spent some quality football-watching time (it's college bowl season!) removing the non-tear-away stabilizer from tiny topstitched triangles of fabric.  I used embroidery scissors, and tried to be very careful, but it was not an easy feat.









In fact, due to the eight different times I sliced through my stitching, I felt the need to re-sew several of the pieces.  And I chose to go back to using paper towel for this stabilizing.  And it didn't work out so bad... Maybe I was too hasty in my previous post, embracing a stabilizer you had to cut away instead of tear.

Paper towel as stabilizer: not so bad...

So here's my new recommendation: paper towel works good enough as a stabilizer.  And actually tears away from the stitching when you're done, leaving a clean edge stitch.

Edge-stitched triangles in position for the next step

Can I finish the baby quilt borders now?  Soon.

Topstitch/Edgestitch Exploration

I have had the need to topstitch (edgestitch) several sewing pieces lately, and this led me on a mini-exploration: do I have any product already on hand that I can use as a stabilizer?

The fault probably lies with my sewing machine.  I tried sewing around the edge of these cloud shapes with my needle in the right (rather than centered) position, meaning I couldn't use the single-hole needle plate.  I did this because my feed dogs have a hard time gripping edges of projects.  But the result was that the fabric got pulled down into the feed plate area--ugh.  So, I ended up trying the walking foot attachment.  I don't recommend this method: the ability to stitch corners and curves is reduced, and the visibility of the actual edge of the item is almost nonexistent.  (Still, this item is stitched as part of a child's toy, so any non-major stitching flaws can be mostly ignored.)

After this unsuccessful foray into edgestitching, I went to the Internet to look at solutions.  Aha!  Stabilizer is the recommended fix for this problem.  Never having used it myself, I was curious.  (Also, living out in the hinterlands, and being a generally frugal person, I was not running out to a store for a commercial stabilizer.)

Inspiration: 28 tiny triangles to topstitch

Internet search for "thrifty stabilizer" led me to several ideas.  Being the nerdy perfectionist that I am, I tried a bunch of them out.  Here are my thoughts/reviews...


1.  Dryer Sheets (used): this was from a posting about the many re-uses of dryer sheets.  Not recommended because the webbing actually got stuck in my feed dogs, making stitching more difficult.  I didn't even take a picture, the mess was so bad.

2.  Paper Towel: again, I didn't like the way this stitched.  Although, if you don't have a big, bumpy corner to stitch around, you might not have the difficulty that I did.  (The clouds, for example, only had gentle curves.)

3.  Tissue Paper:  cheap and plentiful, but alas did not stitch well on my machine.

4.  Parchment Paper: recommended by a friend, who was concerned that all my other trial materials were not really "tear away" stabilizers, parchment paper definitely tears well.  I felt like it didn't stitch as well as I would have hoped, and the fabric had a tendency to slip against the paper, especially on the bias edge.

5.  (not sure what to call this) Memory Foam Packing Material: my favorite, from a stitching perspective.  This non-directional fiber was "grippy" in all the right ways.  The fabric stayed put on top of it, even the pesky bias edge.  I could tug on it a little when going around the bumpy sharp corner.  Definitely my favorite stitching.  But--as with most of my trial stabilizers--this will not tear away.  So I will be stuck snipping my stabilizer free from 28 tiny triangles.  (Fortunately, there's football on this weekend: good background for snipping activity.)

What is this stuff, you ask?  And how is it thrifty?

I did a blog post about it last winter, after we had purchased two queen-size memory foam mattress pads.  I have vast quantities of this fiber product.  As with my other trial items, it was something I already had on hand.  Unlike all the other products, however, this one has no other use or purpose at this time.  It's just sitting in a decorative trunk, waiting for me to figure out what I can do with it.

My first product review: alternatives to commercial stabilizer.  I'll write later how the non-tear-away portion of the stabilizing goes.